In the course of learning about saké, I struggled for years to understand what yamahai brewing is. It is essentially a special method for brewing saké. This includes an intense manual labor that goes into mashing together its ingredients at higher temperatures. Sounds geeky, I know, but trust me, a glass of this Masumi Yamahai will show you what the fuss is all about. This brewery makes a couple of yamahai products, and this particular one shows a delightful contrast between a typical ginjo and a yamahai profile. It is robust and funky with high acidity and sweetness. Made in 2011 and aged over two summers, it offers a rich, smoky, mature character ending with an elegant, clean finish. This is not a typical sushi or sashimi saké. I encourage you to be adventurous and pair it with smoked meats, cheeses, and even chocolate.
